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Traditional vs. Roth IRA

Traditional vs. Roth IRA

Do you know the difference?

Traditional Individual Retirement Accounts (IRA), which were created in 1974, are owned by roughly 33.2 million U.S. households. Roth IRAs, however, were created as part of the Taxpayer Relief Act in 1997, are owned by nearly 22.5 million households.1

Both are IRAs. And yet, each is quite different.

Know the limits. Up to certain limits, traditional IRAs allow individuals to make tax-deductible contributions into the account. Distributions from traditional IRAs are taxed as ordinary income, and if taken before age 59½, may be subject to a 10-percent federal income tax penalty. Remember, under the SECURE Act, in most circumstances, once you reach age 72, you must begin taking required minimum distributions from a Traditional Individual Retirement Account (IRA). Additionally, you may continue to contribute to a Traditional IRA past age 70½, under the SECURE Act, as long as you meet the earned-income requirement.

Filing single. For singles, the maximum tax-deductible contribution starts shrinking once your modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) reaches $65,000. Singles with adjusted incomes of $75,000 and above are not eligible for a tax deduction.2

Filing jointly. For those who are married and filing jointly, things are a bit more complicated. If you or your spouse makes an IRA contribution that is covered by a workplace retirement plan, the deduction begins phasing out when your adjusted gross income is at $104,000, and it disappears at $124,000. However, if you do not have a workplace plan, but your spouse does (or vice versa), the 2020 limit starts at $196,000, and no tax deduction is allowed once the contributor’s income reaches $206,000.

Also, within certain limits, individuals can make contributions to a Roth IRA with after-tax dollars. To qualify for a tax-free and penalty-free withdrawal of earnings, Roth IRA distributions must meet a five-year holding requirement and occur after age 59½.3

Income impacts total contributions. Like a traditional IRA, contributions to a Roth IRA are limited based on income. For 2019, contributions to a Roth IRA are phased out between $193,000 and $203,000 for married couples filing jointly and between $122,000 and $137,000 for single filers.

Contribution limits. In addition to distribution rules, there are limits on how much can be contributed each year to either IRA. In fact, these limits apply to any combination of IRAs; that is, workers cannot put more than $6,000 per year into their Roth and traditional IRAs, combined. So, if a worker contributed $3,500 in a given year into a traditional IRA, their contributions to a Roth IRA would be limited to $2,500 during that same year.4

Catch-up contributions. Individuals who reach age 50 or older by the end of the tax year can qualify for “catch-up” contributions. The combined limit for these is $7,000.5

Let’s chat. When it comes to picking an IRA, both traditional and Roth IRAs may play an important role in your retirement strategy. If you have any questions, let’s chat soon about how these products may be a good fit for your goals.

No need to come to the office – you can set an online initial consultation with us!

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Citations
1 – irs.gov/retirement-plans/individual-retirement-arrangements-iras, [01/09/2020]
2 – irs.gov/retirement-plans/ira-deduction-limits, [12/20/2019]
3 – irs.gov/retirement-plans/are-you-covered-by-an-employers-retirement-plan [01/08/2020]
4 – irs.gov/retirement-plans/plan-participant-employee/retirement-topics-ira-contribution-limits [02/07/2020]
5 – Internal Revenue Service, 2019. The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017 eliminated the ability to “undo” a Roth conversion.


This material was prepared by MarketingPro, Inc., and does not necessarily represent the views of the presenting party, nor their affiliates. This information has been derived from sources believed to be accurate. Please note – investing involves risk, and past performance is no guarantee of future results. The publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting or other professional services. If assistance is needed, the reader is advised to engage the services of a competent professional. This information should not be construed as investment, tax or legal advice and may not be relied on for the purpose of avoiding any Federal tax penalty. This is neither a solicitation nor recommendation to purchase or sell any investment or insurance product or service, and should not be relied upon as such. All indices are unmanaged and are not illustrative of any particular investment.

That First Distribution from Your IRA

That First Distribution from Your IRA

What you need to know.

When you are in your seventies, Internal Revenue Service rules say that you must start making withdrawals from your traditional IRA(s). In I.R.S. terminology, these withdrawals are called Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs).1

Generally, these distributions from traditional IRAs must begin once you reach age 72. The money distributed to you is taxed as ordinary income. (When such distributions are taken before age 59½, they may be subject to a 10% federal income tax penalty.)1

If you fail to make these withdrawals or take out less than the required amount, the I.R.S. will notice. In addition to owing income taxes on the undistributed amount, you will owe 50% more. (This 50% penalty can be waived if you can show the I.R.S. that the shortfall resulted from a “reasonable error” instead of negligence.)1

Many owners of traditional IRAs have questions about these IRA distributions and the rules related to them, so let’s answer a few.

When is the deadline for your initial IRA distribution? It must be taken by April 1 of the year after the year in which you turn 72. So, if you turn 72 in 2020, your first distribution from your traditional IRA has to occur by April 1, 2021. All the distributions you take in subsequent years must be taken by December 31 of each year.1

The starting age for these distributions has changed from 70½ to 72 due to a new federal law, the Setting Up Every Community for Retirement Enhancement (SECURE) Act. IRA owners born on or after July 1, 1949 are now scheduled to take initial IRA distributions after they turn 72.2

Is waiting until April 1, 2021 a bad idea? Maybe. While the I.R.S. allows you three extra months to take that initial IRA distribution, putting off the withdrawal could bring on a tax issue. These distributions are taxable in the year that they are taken. If you postpone the initial distribution slated for 2020 into 2021, then the taxable portions of both your first mandatory IRA distribution (deadline: April 1, 2021) and your second mandatory IRA distribution (deadline: December 31, 2021) must be reported as income on your 1040 form for 2021.1

A hypothetical example: James and his wife Stephanie file jointly, and together they earn $168,400 in 2020 (the upper limit of the 22% federal tax bracket). James turns 72 in 2020, but he decides to put off his first IRA distribution until April 1, 2021, so that means he must take two IRA distributions before 2021 ends. His 2021 taxable income jumps as a result, and it pushes the pair into a higher tax bracket. The lesson: if you will be 72 by the time 2020 ends, take your initial distribution by the end of 2020 – or risk potentially higher taxes.1,3

How do I calculate my first IRA withdrawal? If your IRA is held at one of the big investment firms, it may calculate the withdrawal amount for you and offer to route the amount into another account of your choice. It will give you and the I.R.S. a 1099-R form recording the distribution, and the amount of it that is taxable.5

Otherwise, I.R.S. Publication 590 is your resource. You calculate the amount of the distribution using Publication 590’s life expectancy tables, and your IRA balance on December 31 of the previous year. If you Google “how to calculate your required IRA distribution,” you will see links to worksheets at irs.gov and a host of other free online calculators.1,4

If your spouse is more than 10 years younger than you and is designated as the sole beneficiary for a traditional IRA that you own, you should use the I.R.S. IRA Minimum Distribution Worksheet (downloadable as a PDF) to help calculate your distribution.6

Can I take my IRA distribution in increments? Yes, if time permits. Your IRA custodian may be able to schedule these incremental withdrawals for you, perhaps with taxes withheld.7

What if I have more than one traditional IRA? You can figure out the total mandatory distribution by separately calculating the distribution for each of your traditional IRAs. You can take the total distribution amount from a single traditional IRA or multiple traditional IRAs.1

What if I have a Roth IRA? You don’t need to make mandatory IRA withdrawals from a Roth IRA if you are its original owner. Only inherited Roth IRAs require these withdrawals.1

Be proactive. Delaying your first IRA distribution until 2021 could mean higher income taxes in 2022.

Citations
1 – irs.gov/retirement-plans/retirement-plans-faqs-regarding-required-minimum-distributions [2/7/20]
2 – forbes.com/sites/kristinmckenna/2020/01/10/you-can-now-take-required-minimum-distributions-at-72-but-should-you [1/10/20]
3 – nerdwallet.com/blog/taxes/federal-income-tax-brackets/ [2/5/20]
4 – google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how+to+calculate+your+required+IRA+distribution [2/10/20]
5 – finance.zacks.com/everyone-ira-1099r-4710.html [3/6/19]
6 – irs.gov/pub/irs-tege/jlls_rmd_worksheet.pdf [2/10/20]
7 – fidelity.com/viewpoints/retirement/smart-ira-withdrawal-strategies [1/27/20]


This material was prepared by MarketingPro, Inc., and does not necessarily represent the views of the presenting party, nor their affiliates. This information has been derived from sources believed to be accurate. Please note – investing involves risk, and past performance is no guarantee of future results. The publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting or other professional services. If assistance is needed, the reader is advised to engage the services of a competent professional. This information should not be construed as investment, tax or legal advice and may not be relied on for the purpose of avoiding any Federal tax penalty. This is neither a solicitation nor recommendation to purchase or sell any investment or insurance product or service, and should not be relied upon as such. All indices are unmanaged and are not illustrative of any particular investment.

The Sequence of Returns

The Sequence of Returns

A look at how variable rates of return do (and do not) impact investors over time.

What exactly is the “sequence of returns”? The phrase describes the yearly variation in an investment portfolio’s rate of return. Across 20 or 30 years of saving and investing for the future, what kind of impact do these deviations from the average return have on a portfolio’s final value?

The answer: no impact at all.

Once an investor retires, however, these ups and downs can have an effect on portfolio value – and retirement income.

During the accumulation phase, the sequence of returns is ultimately inconsequential. Yearly returns may vary greatly or minimally; in the end, the variance from the mean hardly matters. (Think of “the end” as the moment the investor retires: the time when the emphasis on accumulating assets gives way to the need to withdraw assets.)

An analysis from BlackRock bears this out. The asset manager compares three model investing scenarios: three investors start portfolios with lump sums of $1 million, and each of the three portfolios averages a 7% annual return across 25 years. In two of these scenarios, annual returns vary from -7% to +22%. In the third scenario, the return is simply 7% every year. In all three situations, each investor accumulates $5,434,372 after 25 years – because the average annual return is 7% in each case.1

Here is another way to look at it. The average annual return of your portfolio is dynamic; it changes, year-to-year. You have no idea what the average annual return of your portfolio will be when “it is all said and done,” just like a baseball player has no idea what his lifetime batting average will be four seasons into a 13-year playing career. As you save and invest, the sequence of annual portfolio returns influences your average yearly return, but the deviations from the mean will not impact the portfolio’s final value. It will be what it will be.1

When you shift from asset accumulation to asset distribution, the story changes. You must try to protect your invested assets against sequence of returns risk.

This is the risk of your retirement coinciding with a bear market (or something close). Even if your portfolio performs well across the duration of your retirement, a bad year or two at the beginning could heighten concerns about outliving your money.

For a classic illustration of the damage done by sequence of returns risk, consider the awful 2007-2009 bear market. Picture a couple at the start of 2008 with a $1 million portfolio, held 60% in equities and 40% in fixed-income investments. They arrange to retire at the end of the year. This will prove a costly decision. The bond market (in shorthand, the S&P U.S. Aggregate Bond Index) gains 5.7% in 2008, but the stock market (in shorthand, the S&P 500) dives 37.0%. As a result, their $1 million portfolio declines to $800,800 in just one year. 2, 3

If you are about to retire, do not dismiss this risk. If you are far from retirement, keep saving and investing, knowing that the sequence of returns will have its most relevant implications as you make your retirement transition.

Have questions? Please contact us at (215) 766-7002 or info@aeinvestmentsgroup.com.

Learn more about Brent E Chavez, the Services We Provide, or Why Choose AE?

Citations
1 – blackrock.com/pt/literature/investor-education/sequence-of-returns-one-pager-va-us.pdf [10/19]
2 – kiplinger.com/article/retirement/T047-C032-S014-is-your-retirement-income-in-peril-of-this-risk.html [7/3/18]
3 – thebalance.com/how-sequence-risk-affects-your-retirement-money-2388672 [2/8/19]

This material was prepared by MarketingPro, Inc., and does not necessarily represent the views of the presenting party, nor their affiliates. This information has been derived from sources believed to be accurate. Please note – investing involves risk, and past performance is no guarantee of future results. The publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting or other professional services. If assistance is needed, the reader is advised to engage the services of a competent professional. This information should not be construed as investment, tax or legal advice and may not be relied on for the purpose of avoiding any Federal tax penalty. This is neither a solicitation nor recommendation to purchase or sell any investment or insurance product or service, and should not be relied upon as such. All indices are unmanaged and are not illustrative of any particular investment.

How do Income Riders Really Work?

Hello everyone. This is Brent Chavez of Aequitas Equitas Investment Group. I’m coming to you from beautiful and historic Bedminster, PA. I just want to talk a little bit today about something that is very frustrating to me as an adviser, and has frustrated many investors and many people that have been in my office with these investments… and that is an income rider that is found on variable annuities and fixed indexed annuities.

They position these riders as if the individual is going to get a guaranteed return of six, seven, sometimes even eight percent. And the problem is that the average investor doesn’t realize what this guarantee actually means. What are they getting?

Well, I just recently came across an advertisement for a Transamerica variable annuity. It looks to the inexperienced eye, that you’re going to get 7.2% return guaranteed for 10 years. And in the advertisement it says: “Double your withdrawal base. For those looking for retirement income, Transamerica Retirement Income Max, available with the Transamerica variable annuity, delivers. Designed to be straightforward and flexible retirement income that can double your withdraw base in just 10 years.” Then big bold letters, it says: “More confidence, 7.2% compounding growth.” And again, if you don’t know what you’re looking at, it looks like man, they’re guaranteeing to double my money over the next 10 years.
But what really is that? What does that mean to you as the investor?

Well, you need to understand, it’s just a very expensive rider that the insurance company puts on to your principal that you initially invest with the company. And so, you end up having a cash value in your policy, and then you have a hypothetical amount in your policy – I like to call that your Monopoly money, because it’s not real. You could never withdraw that complete value no matter if you’ve been in the policy for 10, 20, or 30 years. It’s just really hypothetical numbers, not your real cash value. And so, the company rolls up this hypothetical number in your account over a 10-year period, and they guarantee they’re going to do it, in this case, at a 7.2% rate of return or doubling your money. But the reality of it is, your real cash value, most likely, will be much less. So if you say at the end of the 10 years, this contract is a 10 year contract, you want to walk away, you’re going to go to insurance company and you’re not going to be able to take out that guaranteed 7.2%… you will be able to take out your cash value instead. When you really dig in and look at what that means for individuals – again, it gets positioned that you can live on this guaranteed income no matter what happens in the market, you’re going to be able to have this guaranteed lifetime payment.

So, at first blush this may seem good to the investor, that they’re going to have this guaranteed payment, no matter what happens. But when you dig in and look at the math of what is actually happening… it’s not that great. So, if you have $100,000 for example, that rider is going to cost you a minimum of $1,350 a year. If you want to have it set up so that you have a joint life set up on this contract, well it’s going to be 1.45%. So, $100,000, you’re looking at $1350 a year for single life. You’re looking at $1450 for this rider on a joint life contract. Then, when you add in the fact that you again are going to pay, within the advertisement for this Transamerica annuity, you’re going to pay anywhere from .20 to 1.9% M&E fee on top of the 1.35 to 1.45, you’re going to pay an average investment fee for having deep investments, which are going to be mutual funds, within your annuity with their average investment cost being about 1%. So, you can have 1.45%, plus another 1% for your investment and you can have a 1.90, on top of that, the M&E fee. Also, there is a $50 policy fee a year. And so, you’re looking at 4.35%, to have this product.

So, you can imagine the returns that you’re going to need to get to be able to overcome all these costs that you have coming up out of the investment money. And then on top of it, with inside this advertisement it says that, that 1.35 or 1.45, is based on your hypothetical pile of money, your funny money pile. So that’s most likely going to be higher than your real cash value. And they mentioned that with inside the ad that your real money, your real cash value can be substantially less than your income rider pile of money. And so, you could be, as a percentage of your asset, paying a substantially higher amount than 1.35 or 1.45, and contractually they can increase that 1.35 or 1.45 an additional .75 during the life of you having this investment with them. So, you could have 1.35 to start and then they come in and add .75… so now your income rider is a 2.1, we get into a bear market, your value of your portfolio goes down by 30%. And so, you could see you could be at 2.5 or 3%, just with this one rider.

Then say everything goes great. You get through the 10-year period and your money income value is doubled – you gave them $125,000; you have $250,000 sitting in this variable annuity. Well, now here comes the second part of the payout to you. So now, at that point, if you’re age 64 and you want to start this income for life, you get a 4% payout. If you’re 69 you get a 5.25% payout. If you are 74, you get a 5.4% payout. And on and on, up until 80, which is the max, and that is a 5.75 withdrawal rate. And, your joint life withdrawal percentages are lower – so you pay more for the rider and you get to withdraw less. But we’ll just use the example of that first one or two withdrawal percentages.

So, you have a benefit base of $250,000, you gave them $125,000. So, we’ll just say for argument’s sake, your cash value is $200,000 – and I’m probably being liberal by saying you’ll have $200,000 in this type of investment after 10 years, because that would mean you’d have to net a 4.8% return. And again, you could have up to 4.3% just in fees on this product. So, I think it’s very liberal to say you could have $200,000 in this particular investment.

So, you have $250,000 – and by the way, that income rider you’re paying is on the $250,000 not the $200,000 you have in cash value – and they start a payout on that $250,000 at 4% single life… that would be $10,000 that they would pay you a year.

Okay, so now let’s do some math. So, if you were to take that 4% payout, or $10,000, how long could, if you took that money, if you took your $200,000, stuck it under the mattress and just paid yourself that guaranteed income rate? Well, $200,000, again, divided by the $10,000 that they’re going to be willing to pay you, is a 20-year payout. So, you could go take your money, stick it under your mattress and pay yourself, and not pay 1.35% to do it, 20 years. Now if you can just add a 4% return over 20 years, guess what? You could pay yourself that income, that same guaranteed amount for 20 years, and still have $200,000 under your mattress.

Well, let’s look at if you were 69 and you started to take a withdrawal payment out. Well, you could take out of that $250,000 benefit base, you could take $13,125 out. And so again, if you were to just have $200,000 in your account and do the math and you divided by that $13,125, they will pay annually to you, you could pay yourself that money for the next 19 years. So, you’re 69, you add the 19 years that you can pay yourself, that takes you to 88. Again, if you could just get a 5.25% return over the next 19 years with that same $200,000… you could make those same payments to yourself and have the $200,000 for yourself.

So, we see where we’re going here. And that’s if you don’t take any additional monies out of this policy. You have to remember when you do start this income payment, if you withdraw anything, this $200,000 that you have in cash value, when you need some of that, if you take any of that principal out, that’s going to lower that benefit base that they pay to you.

And, in fact, inside this advertisement they have that if you take out too much additional money out of your cash value or your real money pile, and this contract goes to zero because of that, you would then end this contract, your income would stop and the contract would come to an end. So, that’s another loophole that you have got to consider, another potential problem. What if you need a large sum of money? Well, at the very least, it’s going to affect the annual or monthly payout that they give you on this money.

So, we can see very quickly why this is something that you have to look at very closely. Maybe as an individual investor you want to feel warm and fuzzy about having a guaranteed income payment and making sure that you know you can always count on that. But, the reality of this is, and research is showing, that most people in retirement aren’t even spending what they have.

BlackRock had done some research. In Forbes magazine, March of 2018 there was an article titled: “Are retirees spending too little?” It said there: “Despite all the talk of a retirement crisis, BlackRock, the world’s largest asset manager, says it’s research shows that many retirees aren’t spending enough of their money. In fact, BlackRock says most current retirees still have 80% of their pre-retirement savings after almost two decades in retirement.”

And you can look and see all over the internet multitude of articles written about this matter that retirees aren’t spending their retirement money. In fact, they don’t even want to take RMD’s a lot of times. So, if they don’t even want to take RMD’s, do we really want to pay for a ridiculously high-priced rider to guarantee you some income payout for life? Again, that would be up to you, but I think there’s better ways to do this and much less costly ways to make sure that you have the right amount income or guarantee income that you would like to have.

And so again, you can see, this is something that a lot of people get caught up in and we just don’t want you as an investor to be fooled by what can seem to be guarantees of your principal and returns on your principal, when in fact they aren’t. This problem isn’t just in the variable annuity world, these withdrawal guarantee riders; we see them in the fixed indexed annuity world too, they’re just as bad. They will make it seem as if you’re going to get some guaranteed return on your principal, but actually it’s the funny money pile as I like to call it – a hypothetical pile of money, Monopoly money, and that the payouts are going to come from your actual cash value, which in most cases, are going to be substantially lower in the payout period. And again, they’re going to come with very expensive riders on the fixed indexed annuity side. With a fixed indexed annuity, the difference there is your principal base is guaranteed each year; where with a variable annuity, your principal has no guarantees. So that could add some nuances to how your money grows, how much money you have as a cash value base. But that’s again going to be individual or specific to the various contracts from the various companies.

So, we can see a very frustrating process, it can be very misleading, very tricky to understand what you have. But before you make that decision, please make sure you understand exactly what you’re getting, how you’re going to get paid out and then just think about the math. At the end, when you want to take this money out, really what does that mean to you? How long would your money last if you stuck it in a mattress? And in most of these contracts we see, whether it’s a fixed indexed annuity or a variable annuity, you could stick your lump sum under your mattress and get a payout from 16 to 22, 23 years without having to get a penny in return on your investment.

So again, I don’t think that it’s prudent to spend 1.35 or 1% or whatever the various charges are in the various products – they guarantee something that actuarily has been worked out in favor of the insurance companies – I don’t think that is a prudent thing to do with your hard-earned dollars when you factor in what just a 1% difference in return or cost can do to your retirement funds.

Well that’s it for today. In our future podcast, we’ll be looking at some differences between variable annuities and fixed indexed annuities, the pros and cons of both. In the meantime, if you have any questions feel free to reach out to me. We look forward to speaking with you again. This is Brent Chavez, coming to you from Aequitas Equitas Investment Group in Bedminster, PA.